THERE is only one wrestling tournament in the world at which contestants use tons of olive oil. It is held each year in western Turkey , and its tradition reaches far back into history.

Rules for the matches have changed only slightly over the years. In olden times, some bouts went on for hours or even days, since the only way to win was to pin one's opponent to the ground. Some contestants expended so much energy that they died on the field. Now it is also possible to win on points, and matches are stopped after 45 minutes.

But in most other ways, the one-on-one combats staged every summer closely resemble the first ones held nearly 700 years ago. Wrestlers are stripped to the waist, wear specially designed leather trousers and enjoy the boundless respect of their countrymen. Most important, they begin fighting only after being drenched with olive oil from head to toe. Three tons are consumed this way at each year's tournament.

Oil wrestling tournaments have been held in Turkey every year since the first ones were staged as tests of strength for Ottoman soldiers and amusements for their rulers. This year's, which will be the 640th, will be held from Friday to Sunday. Now the three-day event is not simply a sporting test but a festival that attracts a colorful cross section of Turkey , from gypsy families who camp near the stadium to appliance manufacturers who display their newest refrigerators and microwave ovens. It reveals an aspect of this multifaceted country that many visitors miss.

Although Turkey is in many ways a modern nation that embraces its European heritage, it still revels in its ancient Turkish history. Many of the same Turks who cheer for soccer or basketball teams also love the three traditional sports that reflect the Central Asian origin of Turkish peoples. One is camel fighting, another is the fast-moving horsemanship and javelin-throwing competition called cirit, and the third and perhaps most evocative is oil wrestling.

The Ottoman Empire is often thought to have been established in 1453, when Sultan Mehmet II crushed Christian Byzantium by conquering its capital, Constantinople (now Istanbul), and establishing a Muslim dynasty in its place. But in fact the Ottoman house was founded by Sultan Osman more than a century and a half earlier, and it was during his reign that the first oil wrestling tournaments were organized. They were held, as they are today, on the outskirts of Edirne.

Edirne is near Turkey 's border with Greece , two hours west of Istanbul by car, and the rented minivan in which I made the trip with a few friends last year passed through the plains where Osman and other early Ottoman sultans marshaled their troops for expeditions that would ultimately propel them to world leadership. Today the city of around 150,000 is out of the mainstream, and not visited by many tourists. That is unfortunate because it boasts some fine architectural treasures, including a grand mosque built by the 16th-century architect Sinan that some connoisseurs consider the finest in Turkey . But at the beginning of each summer, Edirne attracts thousands of people who watch some of the country's most admired athletes test their skills.

At one side of the quadrangular grassy field, a corps of volunteers doused each contestant's naked chest, back and shoulders with oil, which is supposed to make the competition more difficult than ordinary wrestling, a sport in which many of these fighters also compete. Once oiled, the combatants skip across the field in lines, about half a dozen at a time, slapping their knees and jumping as they move forward. Each man faces off against his designated opponent.

Several matches take place at once, each with its own referee. Points are won by turning a rival upside down, pinning one of his shoulders to the ground or executing other maneuvers.

Because the matches last so long, they seem more like stylized dances than quick-paced contests. Thankfully, it is not necessary to understand the rules to appreciate the surges of activity and seemingly calm lulls, which the fighters use to gain subtle tactical and psychological advantage.

Matches go on for most of the day, and spectators watch respectfully. Many take this tournament very seriously, occasionally breaking into cries of encouragement, triumph or anguish but otherwise remarkably focused.

Besides the drumming, the matches are accompanied by recitals of traditional poetry. Announcers sing the praises of "Ye, oh great wrestlers" and recite verses with lines like these:

Every woman can give birth,
But not every boy can be a wrestler

Event Details
First date	June 2008 (Every year) (allways check)
Country	Turkey
Town	Edirne
Venue Details
Venue	Edirne Stadium
Directions	Within walking distance of the town centre.
Contact Details
Name	Edirne Provincial Administration
Number	+90 (0) 284 213 9180
Second Number	+90 (0) 284 213 9208 (tourist information)
Fax	+90 (0) 284 212 5757

ANOTHER PLACE IS BEYOBASI near KOYCEGIZ
Fist week of May ( 30 minutes away from Sarigerme)
TEL : (252) 272 00 27
FAKS : (252) 272 00 20